SHOOTING - A GREAT HOBBY

A George Finegold Blog

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A SHORT VIDEO COURSE ON THE PROPER STANCE AND POSITION FOR PISTOL SHOOTING

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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

CARRYING A GLOCK - WITH A NEW "SIDERLOCK" TRIGGER

By George Finegold

I carry a Glock 27 (.40 S&W). I always carry my gun at "level 1" - racked, with a bullet in the chamber. I carry it inside the front of my pants in a "Concealed Carry Holster". I personally feel that if you are going to carry a gun - it should be ready to use. If a situation should ever arise - I know that I will be working with only 50% of my resources due to the stress of the situation. Because it is a Glock there are no other safeties other than the Glock "safe trigger". Though I have been comfortable with the gun - the fact that there was no other safety did play on my mind. I now see an ad for a new replacement trigger called the SIDERLOCK which offers an additional safety blockade. I was definitely excited!


This replacement trigger has a movable pin that either completely locks or unlocks the trigger. This was just what I needed; a better level of comfortablity when carrying the Glock at "Level 1". It made the Glock a much safer gun to handle when not holstered. (The picture shows my Glock with the new trigger installed and the factory trigger on the side. Notice the new pin on the trigger. There are other modifications you can see that I will discuss in the future)

I bought the SIDERLOCK from TopGlock for about $50. delivered. When it arrived - it came with a "pin" and a bushing. The pin was to push out the pins in the gun and the bushing was used to elevate the gun off the table - so that when removing the pins - the guns' pins could drop out.


I took the slide off the frame. I than removed the rear pin and the two front pins from the frame thereby enabling me to remove all the components - including of course - the original trigger. I than proceeded to remove the pin that holds the trigger to the trigger connector bar. Now the original Glock trigger is out.


Following the directions that came with the new SIDERLOCK trigger, I removed the Glock trigger safety pin from the glock trigger assembly. I reassembled the frame - less a trigger. With all the components back in place, I attached the new SIDERLOCK trigger to the trigger connector bar and my gun was now ready for its' slide, and was complete - with a new safety trigger. This whole replacement operation took 5 minutes. As an aside, the Glock is perhaps the easiest gun to completely take apart. Putting in new connectors, springs, etc. also takes 5 minutes once you get to know a Glock.


I now carry the Glock as before - but with the new SIDERLOCK trigger safety on "ON". To use the gun I simply "take it to position". While doing so, I push the new safety to "off". My index finger continues till it rests above the trigger and my gun is ready to fire as my sights come into view. Click on any of the words SIDERLOCK to take you to their site.



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THE CONDITIONS OF READINESS...

The legendary guru of the combat 1911, Jeff Cooper, came up with the "Condition" system to define the state of readiness of the 1911-pattern pistol. The are:

Condition 0 - A round is in the chamber, hammer is cocked, and the safety is off.

Condition 1 - Also known as "cocked and locked," means a round is in the chamber, the hammer is cocked, and the manual thumb safety on the side of the frame is applied.

Condition 2 - A round is in the chamber and the hammer is down.

Condition 3 - The chamber is empty and hammer is down with a charged magazine in the gun.

Condition 4 - The chamber is empty, hammer is down and no magazine is in the gun.

The mode of readiness preferred by the experts is Condition One. Generally speaking, Condition One offers the best balance of readiness and safety. Its biggest drawback is that it looks scary to people who don't understand the operation and safety features of the pistol.

Condition Two is problematic for several reasons, and is the source of more negligent discharges than the other conditions. When you rack the slide to chamber a round in the 1911, the hammer is cocked and the manual safety is off. There is no way to avoid this with the 1911 design. In order to lower the hammer, the trigger must be pulled and the hammer lowered slowly with the thumb onto the firing pin, the end of which is only a few millimeters away from the primer of a live round. Should the thumb slip, the hammer would drop and fire the gun. Not only would a round be launched in circumstances which would be at best embarrassing and possibly tragic, but also the thumb would be behind the slide as it cycled, resulting in serious injury to the hand. A second problem with this condition is that the true 1911A1 does not have a firing pin block and an impact on the hammer which is resting on the firing pin could conceivably cause the gun to go off, although actual instances of this are virtually nonexistent. Finally, in order to fire the gun, the hammer must be manually cocked, again with the thumb. In an emergency situation, this adds another opportunity for something to go wrong and slows the acquisition of the sight picture.

Condition Three adds a degree of "insurance" against an accidental discharge since there is no round in the chamber. To bring the gun into action from the holster, the pistol must be drawn and the slide racked as the pistol is brought to bear on the target. This draw is usually called "the Israeli draw" since it was taught by Israeli security and defense forces. Some of the real expert trainers can do an Israeli draw faster than most of us can do a simple draw, but for most of us, the Israeli draw adds a degree of complexity, an extra step, and an opening for mistakes in the process of getting the front sight onto the target.

Using the "half-cock" as a safety

The half-cock notch on the M1911 is really intended as a "fail-safe" and is not recommended as a safety. However, it has been used as a mode of carry. From Dale Ireland comes this interesting piece of service history from WWII:

When the hammer is pulled back just a few millimeters it "half cocks" and pulling the trigger will not fire the gun [on genuine mil-spec G.I. pistols]. I imagine this is an unsafe and not a recommended safety position. The reason I bring it up however is that it was a commonly used position especially by left-handers in WWII. My father carried his 1911 (not A1) to Enewitok, Leyte, first wave at Luzon, the battle inside Intramuros, and until he was finally shot near Ipo dam. He tells me that he regularly used the half cocked safety position especially at night and patrolling because bringing the weapon to the full cocked position from the half cocked created much less noise and he was left handed so he couldn't use the thumb safety effectively. He said using the half cocked position was all about noise reduction for lefties while maintaining a small amount of safety that could quickly be released.

Again, the half-cock is intended as a fail-safe in the event that the sear hooks were to fail, and it is not recommended as a mode of carry. It should also be noted that on guns with "Series 80" type hammers, the hammer will fall from half-cock when the trigger is pulled. This would include guns from Springfield Armory and modern production Colts. But, if you happen to be a south paw and find yourself in the jungle with a G.I. M1911A1 and surrounded by enemy troops, the half-cock might be an option.

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